Sunday, September 29, 2013
Saturday, January 15, 2011
Preforming CPR on Your Dog
Check the scene for safety.
If it is an unfamiliar or aggressive dog or if you feel you can't perform CPR, immediately
contact your veterinarian or an emergency veterinary clinic for assistance. Keep the dog
comfortable and calm, if possible.
Check for signs of breathing.
If the dog is unconscious, get down to floor level and see if its chest is moving. Try to feel or
hear if air is coming from the dog's mouth or nose. Check for a pulse by feeling the femoral
artery along the neck.
Clear the airway.
If the dog is unconscious, open its mouth, pull out the tongue, and check for any signs of
obstructions or blockages. Extend the dog's head and neck.
Wrap the dog's muzzle.
For protection against bites, wrap the dog's muzzle with a flat strip of cloth or pantyhose. Loop
it over and under the muzzle, and tie it behind the ears to prevent he dog from pawing it off.
Deliver oxygen via the mouth-to snout method.
If nothing is blocking the airway, tilt the dog's head slightly back. With he dog's mouth
closed, place your mouth over the dog's nose, forming an airtight seal. Breathe in enough air
to cause its chest to rise and fall. Aim for a rate of 12 to 20 breaths per minute. Avoid hard
inhalations, which can force air into the dog's stomach and cause its lungs to over inflate and
collapse.
Check for a heartbeat.
If there is no pulse, begin chest compressions.
Position the dog on its side with its spine against your body. Place one hand on top of the
other about a third of he way above he sternum on the chest, and interlace your fingers. Apply
about five steady downward motions at a rate of one per second. Follow with one breath via
the mouth-to-snout method. After every two minutes alternating chest compressions and
breaths, stop and check for a pulse.
Be Prepared.
To locate a local American Red Cross chapter offering pet first-aid courses, call (213)
739-5200. For the First Aid for Dogs & Cats book ($10) or video ($19.99), call (800)
627-7000 or visit www.arcla.org.
If it is an unfamiliar or aggressive dog or if you feel you can't perform CPR, immediately
contact your veterinarian or an emergency veterinary clinic for assistance. Keep the dog
comfortable and calm, if possible.
Check for signs of breathing.
If the dog is unconscious, get down to floor level and see if its chest is moving. Try to feel or
hear if air is coming from the dog's mouth or nose. Check for a pulse by feeling the femoral
artery along the neck.
Clear the airway.
If the dog is unconscious, open its mouth, pull out the tongue, and check for any signs of
obstructions or blockages. Extend the dog's head and neck.
Wrap the dog's muzzle.
For protection against bites, wrap the dog's muzzle with a flat strip of cloth or pantyhose. Loop
it over and under the muzzle, and tie it behind the ears to prevent he dog from pawing it off.
Deliver oxygen via the mouth-to snout method.
If nothing is blocking the airway, tilt the dog's head slightly back. With he dog's mouth
closed, place your mouth over the dog's nose, forming an airtight seal. Breathe in enough air
to cause its chest to rise and fall. Aim for a rate of 12 to 20 breaths per minute. Avoid hard
inhalations, which can force air into the dog's stomach and cause its lungs to over inflate and
collapse.
Check for a heartbeat.
Place your hand behind he dog's front left elbow on its lower chest.
If there is no pulse, begin chest compressions.
Position the dog on its side with its spine against your body. Place one hand on top of the
other about a third of he way above he sternum on the chest, and interlace your fingers. Apply
about five steady downward motions at a rate of one per second. Follow with one breath via
the mouth-to-snout method. After every two minutes alternating chest compressions and
breaths, stop and check for a pulse.
Be Prepared.
To locate a local American Red Cross chapter offering pet first-aid courses, call (213)
739-5200. For the First Aid for Dogs & Cats book ($10) or video ($19.99), call (800)
627-7000 or visit www.arcla.org.
Doggy Diarrhea Remedy
Here is a home remedy to stop diarrhea.
You can also feed the dry Oatmeal alone or mix it with
Salmon. If my dogs aren't feeling well, I prefer to
feed oatmeal & salmon instead of the usual beef & rice
remedy.
Oatmeal is a natural fiber and calming to the
digestive system. Btw, oatmeal is also one of the
primary ingredients in most commercial "sensitive
stomach" formulas.
Give each
large/med breed dog about 1/2 cup *Dry, Uncooked*
Oatmeal with each meal for one to three days
(depending upon the severity). For smaller breeds, use
only 1/8 to 1/4 cup oatmeal.
large/med breed dog about 1/2 cup *Dry, Uncooked*
Oatmeal with each meal for one to three days
(depending upon the severity). For smaller breeds, use
only 1/8 to 1/4 cup oatmeal.
You can also feed the dry Oatmeal alone or mix it with
Salmon. If my dogs aren't feeling well, I prefer to
feed oatmeal & salmon instead of the usual beef & rice
remedy.
Oatmeal is a natural fiber and calming to the
digestive system. Btw, oatmeal is also one of the
primary ingredients in most commercial "sensitive
stomach" formulas.
Friday, January 14, 2011
The Walk
Before the human came along and to this day, dogs walked for everything. They walked to find prey to hunt for food (then there was some running involved, of course) they walked to get to water, and! they walked to explore their environment (which helps to keep their brain moving forward) which helps to keep them balanced.
Now why some people think that dogs don't need to be walked is beyond me. Or they have a big back yard, so why should they walk the dog. Well almost any trainer will tell you. a back yard is nothing more than a larger kennel. And that does nothing to help the dog explore it's environment. Which is one reason so many dogs run like wild beast when they finally get out, or loose. While the owner stands there and wonders what's wrong with the dog. A dog that walks correctly and regularly with it's owner, doesn't feel the need to do that.
Think how you would feel if every day of your life as a human was this. Sleep all night, wake up, eat, go out for a break, and then be left in a emty house with only two magazines (the same two) all your life. Only to get a little play time of maybe a 15 minute walk. What about the other 23 hours and 45 minutes. And a dog can't constructively exercise itself, they need us...for constructive execise.
Why constructive exercise over play. Play is energy in the form of chaos, and chaos only breeds more chaos. That's the reason so many dogs who only get play as exercise, will continue to bounce off the walls, while the owner stands there scratching their head. Not that dogs don't need play, they do.
Plus, walking creates a bound between owner and dog.
How long of a walk does your dog need?
Now why some people think that dogs don't need to be walked is beyond me. Or they have a big back yard, so why should they walk the dog. Well almost any trainer will tell you. a back yard is nothing more than a larger kennel. And that does nothing to help the dog explore it's environment. Which is one reason so many dogs run like wild beast when they finally get out, or loose. While the owner stands there and wonders what's wrong with the dog. A dog that walks correctly and regularly with it's owner, doesn't feel the need to do that.
Think how you would feel if every day of your life as a human was this. Sleep all night, wake up, eat, go out for a break, and then be left in a emty house with only two magazines (the same two) all your life. Only to get a little play time of maybe a 15 minute walk. What about the other 23 hours and 45 minutes. And a dog can't constructively exercise itself, they need us...for constructive execise.
Why constructive exercise over play. Play is energy in the form of chaos, and chaos only breeds more chaos. That's the reason so many dogs who only get play as exercise, will continue to bounce off the walls, while the owner stands there scratching their head. Not that dogs don't need play, they do.
Plus, walking creates a bound between owner and dog.
How long of a walk does your dog need?
Well that depends on a couple of things, like breed and energy, short legs and long legs, ect.
What does energy have to do with it?
What does energy have to do with it?
Simple. Example; in the same breed such as labs, you can have low enegry, medium, high, and very high. I have one with VERY high energy (oh lucky me lol). She requiers on average approx 2 hours a day, 5 to six times a week. and I even have an advantage over most, because she gets to go to work with me and do her job.
That being said though, I would never suggest someone do something I don't do. now i don't set me first appt for the day until about 10:00 am. And yet i still get up at 5:00 am to give her her walk. AND BELIEVE ME! I don't jump out of bed yelling Woohoo! 2 hour walk. I do it because if I don't full fill my dogs needs, is it fair to ask her to full fill mine. Some people look at the walk as a chore, some exercise, others, a awsome way to spend time and bond with their dogs.
Now to give CM credit where credit is due. I couldn't agree with him more about; one should not just look at a breed of dog when getting one, but it's enegry as well. And should match the energy to their own.
Wow! it feels good to get back to the business at hand.
That being said though, I would never suggest someone do something I don't do. now i don't set me first appt for the day until about 10:00 am. And yet i still get up at 5:00 am to give her her walk. AND BELIEVE ME! I don't jump out of bed yelling Woohoo! 2 hour walk. I do it because if I don't full fill my dogs needs, is it fair to ask her to full fill mine. Some people look at the walk as a chore, some exercise, others, a awsome way to spend time and bond with their dogs.
Now to give CM credit where credit is due. I couldn't agree with him more about; one should not just look at a breed of dog when getting one, but it's enegry as well. And should match the energy to their own.
Wow! it feels good to get back to the business at hand.
Crate Training For Dogs
While some people think crate training is a cruel and or inhumane, it really isn't and many trainers, dog owners and breeders are staring to understand and see first hand the benefits. Is it cruel to place a baby in a playpen? Of course not. Like children, dogs need space confinement until they are old enough to develop physically and mentally enough that acceptable behaviors can be taught. If you introduce your dog to the crate properly, you will find that your puppy will quickly come to prefer it for sleeping and quiet time. The benefits of this training method far outweigh the alternatives. Approximately 85% of dogs surrendered to humane societies and shelters are done so because of house-breaking issues and/or destructive tendencies, and a majority of these dogs are euthanized. So in reality, crate training can save lives and create happy dog/owner relationships, how "cruel" is that?
Why Crate Train?
Dogs in the wild live in dens, protecting them from predators, weather conditions and it allows for a feeling of security. That is why dogs are often found curling up under a table, chair, bed or even under your legs. By giving dogs a secure place of their own, pet owners can help the dog feel safe, therefore reducing isolation-induced stress.
Crate training has great benefits on house-breaking. Dogs do not like to soil their "bed", which is what the crate becomes. Obviously, leaving a young puppy for longer than he/she can "hold it", will force them to have to eliminate in the crate. Typically, a dog can "hold it" one hour for every month of age, so an 8 week old puppy will be able to for approximately 2 hours. However, no matter the age, a dog should never be crated for more than 8 hours. The crate alone will not house train, the dog will still need to be let out at regular intervals. Positive reinforcement and rewarding the dog for going in the appropriate places is also key.
The crate also provides a "safe place" for your dog. It will prevent your dog from destructive behavior (like chewing furniture, clothes, getting into the garbage, ripping up carpeting and flooring...etc). Leaving appropriate chew toys in the crate, will also help to teach your dog what the acceptable chew toys are, and keep him/her occupied when he/she not sleeping. Also, dogs that suffer separation anxiety can become destructive.
Crates also prevent your dog from getting into chemicals, household cleaners and other dangers of the home.
Should your dog ever have an illness or injury that requires confinement and/or rest for recovery, having your dog already crate trained will be of a great help in these situations.
Dogs do learn to accept their crates, and will end up truly loving them. Often dogs will voluntarily go into their crate for a nap, rest or to escape from noise and commotion around the house, or if they just aren't feeling well.
Crate training is also beneficial for traveling. While keeping the dog safe from being thrown around the car, it also prevents them from distracting the driver.
When Should You Crate Train?
Puppies and dogs can be crate trained at any time. It is best to start puppies right away, as older dogs will take longer to adjust to the crate if they have never been introduced to the idea. To get dogs comfortable with the crate, you have to allow them to go in and out on their own, and never to use force. You want the dog to relate the crate to pleasant experiences, not unpleasant ones. Feeding the dog in the crate is a great way to get him/her in there, also tossing toys and treats and making it a retrieve game going in and out. Also, the crate should never be used as a form of punishment.
What Type & Where To Put It?
Typically, there are 2 basic types of crate to chose from. The collapsible wire creates, and the plastic "airline" crates. Either or can be used. Some people prefer the wire crates, as the dog is more able to see what is going on around him/her. The size of the crate is also key. The dog should be able to comfortably lay down, turn, and not have to bend down inside it. It should have acceptable height, width and length. If you are unable to replace the crates as the dog grows, buy a crate that will suit your dog as an adult. If you are using it to house-break, simply partition off the excess space so that the puppy cannot eliminate on one side, and sleep comfortably on the other.
It is best to put the crate in a "lived-in" area where the rest of the family spend a lot of time. Dogs are pack animals, and love to be close to their human pack as well. A living room or kitchen is ideal, not an unused basement or garage. For puppies, pick a room that is close to a door, so they can immediately be taken outside when let out of the crate.
How Long Will It Take To Crate Train?
It varies with every individual dog. Some will learn fairly quicky, while others take much longer. Just be patient and consistent. Do not give in on the dogs terms, but make sure you allow it appropriate intervals to be let out. Don't wait for the dog to begin to whine or bark to do so. This will only teach the dog that whining/barking = getting let out of the crate. They may start to do this regardless of whether they actually need to "go", simply for attention or to play. Also, don't acknowledge or yell at the dog for whining/barking. I know it can be tough to simply ignore this, but giving the dog any kind of attention will only intensify the situation.
So, all that said.....HAPPY CRATING!
Why Crate Train?
Dogs in the wild live in dens, protecting them from predators, weather conditions and it allows for a feeling of security. That is why dogs are often found curling up under a table, chair, bed or even under your legs. By giving dogs a secure place of their own, pet owners can help the dog feel safe, therefore reducing isolation-induced stress.
Crate training has great benefits on house-breaking. Dogs do not like to soil their "bed", which is what the crate becomes. Obviously, leaving a young puppy for longer than he/she can "hold it", will force them to have to eliminate in the crate. Typically, a dog can "hold it" one hour for every month of age, so an 8 week old puppy will be able to for approximately 2 hours. However, no matter the age, a dog should never be crated for more than 8 hours. The crate alone will not house train, the dog will still need to be let out at regular intervals. Positive reinforcement and rewarding the dog for going in the appropriate places is also key.
The crate also provides a "safe place" for your dog. It will prevent your dog from destructive behavior (like chewing furniture, clothes, getting into the garbage, ripping up carpeting and flooring...etc). Leaving appropriate chew toys in the crate, will also help to teach your dog what the acceptable chew toys are, and keep him/her occupied when he/she not sleeping. Also, dogs that suffer separation anxiety can become destructive.
Crates also prevent your dog from getting into chemicals, household cleaners and other dangers of the home.
Should your dog ever have an illness or injury that requires confinement and/or rest for recovery, having your dog already crate trained will be of a great help in these situations.
Dogs do learn to accept their crates, and will end up truly loving them. Often dogs will voluntarily go into their crate for a nap, rest or to escape from noise and commotion around the house, or if they just aren't feeling well.
Crate training is also beneficial for traveling. While keeping the dog safe from being thrown around the car, it also prevents them from distracting the driver.
When Should You Crate Train?
Puppies and dogs can be crate trained at any time. It is best to start puppies right away, as older dogs will take longer to adjust to the crate if they have never been introduced to the idea. To get dogs comfortable with the crate, you have to allow them to go in and out on their own, and never to use force. You want the dog to relate the crate to pleasant experiences, not unpleasant ones. Feeding the dog in the crate is a great way to get him/her in there, also tossing toys and treats and making it a retrieve game going in and out. Also, the crate should never be used as a form of punishment.
What Type & Where To Put It?
Typically, there are 2 basic types of crate to chose from. The collapsible wire creates, and the plastic "airline" crates. Either or can be used. Some people prefer the wire crates, as the dog is more able to see what is going on around him/her. The size of the crate is also key. The dog should be able to comfortably lay down, turn, and not have to bend down inside it. It should have acceptable height, width and length. If you are unable to replace the crates as the dog grows, buy a crate that will suit your dog as an adult. If you are using it to house-break, simply partition off the excess space so that the puppy cannot eliminate on one side, and sleep comfortably on the other.
It is best to put the crate in a "lived-in" area where the rest of the family spend a lot of time. Dogs are pack animals, and love to be close to their human pack as well. A living room or kitchen is ideal, not an unused basement or garage. For puppies, pick a room that is close to a door, so they can immediately be taken outside when let out of the crate.
How Long Will It Take To Crate Train?
It varies with every individual dog. Some will learn fairly quicky, while others take much longer. Just be patient and consistent. Do not give in on the dogs terms, but make sure you allow it appropriate intervals to be let out. Don't wait for the dog to begin to whine or bark to do so. This will only teach the dog that whining/barking = getting let out of the crate. They may start to do this regardless of whether they actually need to "go", simply for attention or to play. Also, don't acknowledge or yell at the dog for whining/barking. I know it can be tough to simply ignore this, but giving the dog any kind of attention will only intensify the situation.
So, all that said.....HAPPY CRATING!
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